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By John M. Rubin
Dogs play, work, eat, sleep, and learn in
such uncomplicated bliss that I was drawn to
work with them from a very young age. In
today's world, dog trainers and behaviorists
have tried to convince us
that
there is more to the dog than meets the eye.
They would like to convince us that the
average owner or dog lover could never
understand what professionals know. I am
convinced, happily, that this is just not
so. All-in-all though, the dog has been good
to me,
and so I find it only right that I remain
good to the dog.
Canine, Canid
The ancestor of the domesticated dog is the
wolf. Science has recently discovered that
domestication of canines possibly began as
early as one hundred thousand years ago,
when
they most likely
closely resembled wolves. Fossil records
indicate that approximately 14,000 years ago
man, through breeding selection, started to
change the conformation of canines at which
time they began to look more like the modern
dog.
Once only a hunting partner, the dog quickly
assumed the additional roles of guard dog
and
working partner.
Finally,
within the last 500 years or so,
the dog became man’s
friend, companion and family pet.
The cooperative, loving nature of the canine
and the similar social structures of humans
and dogs form a
foundation for the unique and enduring
connection of two very separate species.
Pack animals, den animals, hierarchal social
structure, opportunistic omnivores - all
these terms apply to both wolf and dog.
Domestication
is the key difference between wolf and dog.
Therefore, one we must
thoroughly examine domestication,
when it comes to understanding how dogs
learn.
Social Structure
In the litter there is mom and pups - that's
it. Mom feeds the pups at regular intervals,
and the pups sleep, snuggle with littermates
to stay warm and eliminate with the help of
mom. Once the pups are able to see and move
about freely,
there is
non-stop
play between
feedings and
naps.
This whole process evolves very quickly -
within the first 6 to 12
weeks of a pup’s life.
Socialization occurs every day of this
period in a
pup’s
life. Personalities form.
Dominance
and submissiveness
come
into play.
Survival
of the fittest
becomes
the
most prevalent
instinct.
At this stage of a
pup’s
life,
he is more similar
to a wolf pup than
he
will ever be again.
The only difference
between the wolf and the pup’s lives at this
stage is the human (breeder’s or owner’s)
daily interaction with the bitch and her
pups.
To further explain
the
domestication
process,
it is important to know what is occurring
during
each of the pup’s
developmental stages.
Developmental Stages
From
Teaching
Dog Obedience
by: Joachim Zolhard and Gail Tamases Fischer
Neonatal Period
(Birth to 12 Days)
The Neonatal Period, from birth to 12 days
of age, is devoted to two functions:
obtaining nutrition by nursing, and staying
warm.
A puppy is not physically self-sufficient
when he is born. He needs the warmth of his
environment to control his body temperature.
He needs physical stimulation to urinate and
defecate. He has neither sight nor hearing,
and
poor senses of smell,
taste and touch.
He reacts to
hot, cold, and to some
extent,
pain.
He also reacts to the smell of mother.
He moves by crawling forward in a circular
pattern, moving his head from side to side
in an attempt to locate mother. He may
vocalize while he's searching, which
stimulates
the
mother to nuzzle him
to
let him know where she is.
The environment affects him only inasmuch as
it touches him. While the puppy grows
rapidly in size and strength during this
period, his behavior patterns remain
virtually the same throughout. EEG's taken
during the Neonatal Period show no
difference between the puppy's brain waves
when he is asleep and when he is awake.
Transition Period
(13 Days to 20 Days)
The Transition Period is from 13 to 20
days
and is marked by a number of physical
changes in the puppy.
At the beginning of
this period, at an average of 13 days, the
puppy's eyes will open.
While his pupils will react to light, the
retinas
are
still undeveloped.
The puppy
is unable to see objects or movement until
around 21 days of age.
The puppy will begin to crawl backward,
as well as
forward. A few
days later he will begin to walk in a wobbly
fashion, falling as often as he takes steps
forward. Once he starts walking, the puppy
no longer crawls. The first teeth erupt at
around 20 days, and he begins to bite and
chew. Tail wagging also begins during this
period, indicating that tail wagging is not
reliant upon seeing and hearing, since he
cannot yet see or hear.
He begins to react to sounds at an average
of 19.5 days, when he startles at a noise,
but is unable to locate the source of the
sound.
This critical period is one of rapid
physical changes. Over a period of just a
week, the puppy has changed from a Neonate,
who cannot hear
or
walk, move his bowels without stimulation,
keep
himself warm
or eat other than by sucking, into a puppy
who can do all these things.
Awareness Period
(21 to 28 Days)
The Awareness Period is from 21 to 28
days.
This is the first week during which the
puppy is able to use his senses of sight and
hearing. Because the change in his sensory
perceptions happens so abruptly, over a
24-hour period in most puppies, he needs a
stable environment. Now he has the greatest
need for his mother and for a familiar
environment. Weaning or moving the litter to
a new location at this time in all
likelihood will psychologically scar the
puppies.
Learning begins during the Awareness Period.
It is the time in the puppy's life when he
learns what it is to be a dog.
Canine Socialization Period
(21 to 49 Days)
The period from 21 to 49
days,
or three to seven weeks,
is the Canine Socialization Period, when the
puppy learns to use the
species-specific
behaviors that make him a dog.
To reach his genetic potential, the puppy
must stay in the nest with his mother and
littermates throughout this time. During
this period he will practice body postures,
facial expressions and vocalizations.
He learns
their effects on his siblings, mother and
any other dogs he meets. He learns how it
sounds to bark and be barked at,
as well as
how it feels to bite and be bitten.
He learns the various behaviors that make
him a dog: chase games - imitating the chase
necessary to catch and bring down game -
teach him coordination and timing; greeting
behavior teaches him the body postures of
greeting; fight games teach him the use of
his body, body postures and expressions to
elicit various responses. For example,
during play, when a fight might begin, the
puppy learns that a submissive body posture
has the effect of turning off the aggression
of his littermate.
During this critical period, the puppy
learns one of the most important lessons of
his life - to accept discipline. He learns
it from his mother, who through discipline
teaches the puppies not to bite so hard, or,
during the weaning process, to leave her
alone.
Human Socialization Period
(7 to 12 weeks)
The best time to bring a puppy into its new
home is during the Human Socialization
Period, from 50 to 84 days, or seven to
twelve weeks. It is also the best time to
introduce him to those things that will play
a role in his future life. For example, if
he has not already been exposed to farm
animals and it is necessary for him to
interact peacefully with them, it is at this
age that he should meet them in a positive,
non-threatening manner. If the breeder has
not already introduced him to the sounds of
the vacuum cleaner, car engines and city
traffic, he needs to be exposed to these
now. Children, men with beards, women in
floppy hats, and senior citizens while all
people to us, appear different to the dog.
His education and socialization should
include exposure to many types of people of
all ages.
At seven weeks of age, a puppy's EEG shows
the brain waves are the same as those of an
adult dog. His capacity for concentration is
not yet adult,
and his attention span is short. However, he
can learn. Not only can a young puppy learn,
he will learn whether we teach him or not.
This is the age when the most rapid learning
occurs. Everything he experiences makes a
greater impression on him now than it ever
will again.
Learning at this age
is permanent.
It is relatively easy
to teach a puppy at this age,
because
he
has not yet learned any bad habits that will
later have to be cured, and
he
is just a fraction of his adult size and
weight.
This
is the ideal time to begin obedience
training in a positive, non-punitive manner,
taking into account his physical limitations
and short attention span.
Fear Impact Period
(8-11 Weeks)
During the Fear Impact Period, from eight to
eleven weeks, any traumatic, painful, or
frightening experience will have a more
lasting impact on the puppy than if it had
occurred at any other time. It is the
puppy's perception of the experience that is
important, not that of the owner.
For example, a trip to the animal hospital
during this period, if unpleasant, could
forever make a dog apprehensive about going
to the veterinarian. By taking along a toy
and some treats and making the experience
pleasant and fun, the potentially negative
impact is alleviated.
Seniority Classification Period
(13 to 16 Weeks)
This critical period, from thirteen to
sixteen weeks, is also known as the "Age of
Cutting" - cutting teeth and cutting the
apron strings.
During the Seniority Classification Period,
the dog attempts to clarify and resolve the
question of leadership.
Flight Instinct Period
(4 to 8 Months)
The Flight Instinct Period occurs sometime
between four and eight months of age. This
is the time when a puppy will test his
wings. He will venture off on his own and
may turn a deaf ear when called.
The Flight Instinct Period lasts from a few
days to several weeks. How the dog is
handled during this stage will mean the
difference between a dog that doesn't come
when called and one who responds readily.
Because most dog owners are not aware of
this naturally occurring developmental
stage, they react incorrectly, thereby
creating a problem for themselves.
This emergence of the Flight Instinct is
another reason for starting puppies in
obedience class before this age.
There is a physiological change that
corresponds with the Flight Instinct Period
- teething. While the adult teeth come
through the gums prior to six
months
of age, they don't set in the jaw until
between six and ten months. There is a
physiological need for him to exercise his
mouth at this time.
Second Fear Impact
Period
(6 to 14 Months)
This Fear Impact Period, also called the
Fear of New Situations Period, is not as
well defined as the first. The Second Fear
Impact Period corresponds with growth
spurts. Hence, it may occur more than once
as the dog matures.
What marks the Second Fear Impact Period is
a change in the behavior of the now
adolescent dog. He may suddenly be reluctant
to approach something new, or be frightened
of something or someone familiar. When a dog
is exhibiting fear or reluctance, he should
not be forced into a confrontation, bullied
into being brave, or reinforced in his fear
through soothing tones and petting. Force
can frighten the dog further, and soothing
tones only serve to encourage his fear.
His fear should be handled with patience and
kindness. The dog is permitted to work it
out for himself without being forced to deal
with something he perceives as dangerous.
Training during this period puts the dog in
a position of success, so his
self-confidence will be built up.
Maturity
(1 to 4 Years)
Many breeds, particularly the giant breeds,
continue growing and physically changing
beyond four years of age, so maturity refers
to sexual maturity rather than full growth.
For the average dog, maturity occurs
sometime between one and a half and three
years of age, with small dogs maturing
earlier and giant dogs maturing later. This
critical period is often marked by an
increase in aggression and by a renewed
testing for leadership.
End of From
Teaching
Dog Obedience
by: Joachim Zolhard and Gail Tamases Fischer
Steps to Socializing
Your Pup or Dog
(excerpts from www.paw-rescue.org)
As pack animals and social
beings, dogs need interaction with their
owners, other people and other animals. The
more you isolate the dog, and the less you
interact with the dog, the more likely she
will develop negative behaviors.
Companionship is vital to a dog's emotional
well-being. Integrate the pup into your
family from the start. Place your pup's
crate or play pen in a room in which your
family spends considerable time each day.
Raise a dog in an
environment that doesn't allow him to be
teased, tormented or attacked by other dogs.
Tying a dog up or fencing in a location
where other dogs can agitate him leads to
dog aggression. People who want their dogs
to live outside should not get dogs.
Part of interacting with a
dog of any age involves consistently
rewarding all desirable behaviors - thus
increasing the likelihood the dog will
repeat those behaviors - and to take steps
to prevent the development of undesirable
behavior. The latter is usually accomplished
by redirecting the dog's energy into a
positive behavior for which you can reward
her, and when she does something "bad", to
ignore the undesired behavior. This is based
on the principle that dogs typically engage
in behaviors to get attention and/or obtain
something they desire such as a treat, toy,
special privilege or higher status. And this
is why pushing off a jumping dog usually
will not stop the jumping behavior; even
though pushing the dog away seems like a
negative reaction, to the dog seeking
attention, any interaction she achieves
seems better than none. Therefore, it is far
better to get your dog to "sit" before she
tries to jump. That way, you can reward her
with the attention she wants, while
reinforcing only good behavior. It is
important to think about why your dog is
engaging in a particular behavior.
Socializing with
other dogs:
Exposing a puppy or new
dog to other friendly dogs is the best way
to teach essential social skills. (This is
why canine behavior experts warn not to
bring a second dog into your family until
the resident dog has been taught good
behavior and social skills.) Writes Pat
Miller in "Plays Well With Others," (Whole
Dog Journal, March 2000), playtime with
other puppies and non-aggressive adult dogs
enables a dog to learn how to talk and read
"dog-ese" through appropriate interactions
with and responses to other dogs' body
language. If this doesn't happen during the
pup's critical learning period, well before
the age of six months, you may end up with a
canine nerd whose inept use of physical and
postural language gets him into trouble.
Either he sends inappropriate messages or
fails to respond appropriately to another
dog's message.
Playtime in a controlled
situation is a great way to socialize your
pup to other people and dogs. Find friends
who have healthy puppies and gentle adult
dogs, and invite them over to play. If one
dog starts bullying another, intervene. The
old saw about "dogs will work it out
themselves" does not apply here. Your
impressionable pup can develop defensive
aggression if frightened by the dominant or
intense nature of another pup or dog. Firmly
but calmly interrupt undesired behavior the
moment it occurs using brief time-outs. Do
not yell at, smack or otherwise punish the
roughhousing dog; just separate him from the
interaction. Also watch for good behavior.
To encourage good behavior, you want to take
all opportunities to praise and reward with
small treats when the dog is playing well
with others.
Vigorous play is OK as
long as both dogs are having fun. Be ready
to intervene if the one appears scared or
things start to get out of hand. Be aware
that when a male pup starts sexually
maturing, he exudes testosterone, which can
lead to dominance issues and disrupt
relationships with other canines. This is
one of the many good reasons for neutering
dogs at a young age, before sexual maturity.
If a male dog is intact (not neutered), that
increases the potential for conflicts and
fights.
Out in public:
Taking a dog out in public
to meet other people and dogs is an
essential part of socialization.
When dogs meet on-leash,
keep the leash loose as much as possible.
Restraining the leash tightly telegraphs
your tension to the dog. A dog will be more
relaxed if he thinks his owner is not
anxious and that he has some room to
maneuver.
Dogs in neighboring yards
might be territorial. Carefully introduce
pets on neutral ground. Keep your pup on a
leash and never approach another dog until
you have asked the owner if it is OK.
If you see a dog
off-leash, watch for body language. For
example, a wagging tail and relaxed posture
are more welcoming signs than raised
hackles, erect tails and staring. If you
sense any tension, change your walking route
or pick up your young pup and prevent the
animals from having eye contact.
It does a disservice to
all to let a dog off-leash in public, since
dogs can rarely figure out on their own how
human society expects them to behave. As for
the attitude, "my dog just wants to say hi!"
- in many cases, the objects of the dog's
interest don't want to say hi back ... and
in some cases, the dog himself actually
wants to do more than say hi, possibly
leading to an aggressive encounter. Even the
assumption that an off-leash dog approaching
another canine just wants to play is often
wrong. The approaching dog may be more
interesting in establishing him- or herself
as alpha or declaring "this is my
territory." Some dogs may work it out
without owner intervention, but most often,
they need human intervention and control.
Contrary to popular
belief, it's not normal for adult dogs to
instantly come together, bond with one
another and play. It's not even normal for
humans; watch children and you'll notice
that kids are typically selective about who
they wish to fraternize and play with.
Forcing a dog into a social situation for
which the owner has not thoroughly prepared
him for can be a plan for disaster.
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